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Post by sixty9santa on Oct 31, 2008 14:00:57 GMT -5
All I have left to wait for is the Pypes polished 304SS 2.5" Universal Special x-pipe kit (part#: XVF10S). Can't hardly wait!
And I'll make sure to post pics when all the parts home.
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Post by sixty9santa on Dec 3, 2008 1:39:04 GMT -5
Progress Update with Pictures: Magnaflow Mufflers with L-bends Mufflers with Hooker 6901HKR Headers What I'm still waiting to purchase Template for my custom reducers Some, well, lots of finishing left to complete the 304ss reducers Since the exhaust will be exiting on the sides before the rear tires, not to mention that I plan on lowering the rear about 1/2" to an inch, I'll be going with 3"OD and 18" or 22" long tips for clearance reasons. I'm once more going to go with Magnaflow for the stainless tips, part# 35111 or 35112, with rolled edges and a 15 degree angle cut. But they can wait to be purchased until all is installed.
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baun
Tire Kicker
Nada rules
Posts: 93
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Post by baun on Dec 4, 2008 0:21:45 GMT -5
Cool please take pic when installed ;D
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Post by sixty9santa on Dec 4, 2008 19:18:56 GMT -5
Will do!
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Post by sixty9santa on Jul 29, 2009 0:39:11 GMT -5
Update,
Hooker's 6901HKR headers will fit, with some massaging that is... Lift the front of the car about 12-18" off the ground and secure it with jack stands.
The drivers side will have to have the motor mount trimmed as needed, the firewall dented (very near the steering shft) and the kick down linkage bent a bit here and there.
NOTE: When trimming and denting, a good rule of thumb is to have at least 1/2" of clearance to prevent fires due to header contact!!!
The passengers side will be a bit more difficult to get to due to the heater lines, so one option is to disconnect them. I would recommend disconnecting them from the manifold/pump since the heater core lines may be delicate after all those years. Changing the heater core is a real PITA (Pain In The A$$) as already discussed in this forum. I highly recommend wrapping your starter since it will have an early demise due to the excessive heat from the headers. I got my wrap for 40$. Far less than a new starter, or even a rebuilt one.
Another option with these headers is to connect the choke tube that originally went down to the exhaust manifold to the new header's passenger side u- tube. This will also help with warming the choke faster in colder weather, despite the electric choke.
After installation, another option is to remove them, clean them, sand blast them down to the bare metal, clean them once more, apply VHT header primer followed by VHT header paint. Then cure it in a large bbq/smoker or install them and follow the directions on the can.
Finally, the best option is to bolt the drivers side headers to the old manifold, heat the tubes with a torch where needed(MAPP gas is great if you don't have oxy-acetylene on hand), and bend them (with a pry bar/large screwdriver/crowbar) to clear the motor mount and firewall. This will also require a bench vise, so keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case you set the bench a blaze.
NOTE: Do NOT use wet rags to accelerate cooling as this will change the structure of the steel (ie: will likely become brittle). Be patient, and do one or two tubes at a time.
Just in case anyone asks, I also tried unbolting the center motor mount and lifting the engine 2" as it is recommended in the instructions for Mavericks. It worked but, your driver's side motor mount will be in the way and so will the firewall upon lowering....so raising the engine won't help.
Hope this helped and I tried to cover all the aspects of installing these particular headers. I will have pictures as soon as I can stop spending on the car and spend on a new camera instead.
PS; this sounds like a big job, it ain't. Just take your time, don't rush. I described all options for different situations and for what you may or may not have on hand. Denting the firewall only requires a hammer. trimming the motor mount only requires a grinder. Just remember, test fit a lot, trim/dent little by little, and try to have a helping hand since headers do tend to get heavy.
Most importantly, be safe, keep a cool head on your shoulders, and have FUN!!!
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Post by miottimouse on Jun 3, 2011 20:17:42 GMT -5
good day long time since i have being here i know its not duels but the after effects are nearly the same the po added 3" single pipe right at the y pipe all the way to the back in the stock location works good
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